An interview with winemaker Jeff Sully of 428 Wines
From left: Jeff’s daughter-Perian, Lindi Kauer, Jeff Sully
Ever since my first taste of 428’s 2004 Boulevard I have been infatuated. The wine, a blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Syrah, is rich and drinks well with food or on its own; to be sure, it’s rather self-indulgent. Then I met owner and winemaker Jeff Sully. He is smart, kind, and just an all around terrific guy – and it made me love his wines even more.
When we sat down to talk on July 3rd, I learned a whole lot more about Jeff and 428.
Lindi Kauer: Do you have any winery traditions, crush traditions or events that you are particularly fond of?
Jeff Sully: Well, we are so new as a winery that we don’t really have any traditions yet. But we do have a Christmas tradition. . . A long time ago we could barely afford a Christmas tree and we had to scrape together $20 just to get one. We drove along and found a farmstead in upstate New York where we were living at the time. When we picked out the tree and showed it to the sales person, she asked, “would you like red or white?” We were confused and asked back, “Red or white, what?” She pointed at a sign and said, “”Well onions of course.” (A bag of onions came free with every tree purchase.) To this day, we hang onions on our Christmas tree to remind us of how far we’ve come and how fortunate we are.
LK: What are some practices in the vineyard or winery which set you apart or which you are particularly proud of?
JS: Well, we source all of our grapes, but this is very interesting. The vineyards we source from actually use grape stock that I grew from 1973-1975 when I worked for Cal-Vine Nurseries. It’s amazing how it’s all come full circle.
LK: What would you be drinking right now if you weren’t drinking your OWN wines?
JS: Hmmm probably a nice Rosato for summer. . .
LK: To you – is wine more art or science?
JS: To me wine is an art – but the science backs me up.
LK: Other wineries or winemakers you admire?
JS: I would have to say Bob Mondavi. He gave me a start in this business. I knew him for 38 years, and I really feel that he gave me an inside look at the wine industry. I also really admire Marie Eve Gilla from Forgeron here in Walla Walla. We work together on the 428 wines. And then Handley Cellars in the Anderson Valley. It really seems like they’ve captured the essence of the valley.
LK: If you were trying to impress or surprise your wife what wine would you open?
JS: A 1978 Chateau D’Issan – the very first time I cooked a meal for her, that’s the bottle I opened. I guess you could say I’m a hopeless romantic.
LK: *sigh* Currently what are the biggest challenges facing your winery?
JS: It concerns me that as an industry we could lose our grounding. For example: someone hypothesized that Napa has hit the Aspen effect or rather, that it’s a playground for the rich. And I would hate to see a winery opened to feed someone’s ego – or as a toy for the rich. I think that as more of that happens, it becomes more difficult for new talent to come in.
Stay tuned for more vintages to come as this new kid on the block proves he has the right stuff! Visit 428 at their website or their profile at AmericanWinery.com.
July 8th, 2008 at 3:05 pm
Onions on a tree! I love it and I love 428 wine. Very solid stuff that has a promising future. Thanks Jeff for your great interview!
August 14th, 2008 at 3:12 pm
A toast to America’s independent artisans like 428 wines. Nice article. Thanks, Lindi, for bringing our attention to this talented and dedicated vintner.