Winemaker Interview: Kevin Holt of MacRostie Winery & Vineyards
Lindi Kauer: You were going to law school in Texas before you dove into the wine trade. What kind of law were you studying or did you want to specialize in when you graduated?
Kevin Holt: I actually had no idea. To be honest with you, I was in law school for the lack of anything better to do with a degree in English. I never had any pressing desire to be a lawyer, it just seemed like, with a degree in liberal arts, what do you do? I didn’t want to become a teacher, so I thought “oh that would be cool, I could be a lawyer.” I actually liked going to school.
The law school experience was interesting, it was hard but what happened was the summer after my first year I took a clerkship in a law firm – as most people do – and I just decided that I really didn’t like the work. There is nothing wrong with it necessarily, I don’t have anything against lawyers I just didn’t want to do that for the rest of my life so I decided to go a different way.
LK: So what happened at the wine shop to make such a huge change in your original career decision?
KH: Well, I got that job on the strength of what little I had learned in a wine appreciation class that a friend of mine twisted my arm and made me take when I was an undergrad. I just thought I would do that for a while until I figured out what I wanted to do with myself. It’s the thing that happens to pretty much everybody that’s in the wine business in one way or another, it just took a hold of me and wouldn’t let me go. I tasted and I read and I read and I tasted and I worked with the customers there and I made friends and had great dinners revolving around wine and it just turned out to be that that’s what I wanted to do. I thought I might work there for 6 months or so and I was at that first shop for 4 years. I obviously changed directions later but I just found wine endlessly fascinating in a way that nothing else had really been for me at that point in my life, and I just felt that this was what I wanted to do.
LK: Wine does have a way of capturing people doesn’t it. I even think sometimes, “Maybe I’ll make wine someday…”
KH: You know, I didn’t think about being a wine maker for a long time either. It didn’t really occur to me that it was something I could do or that I’d be good at. I mean a big part of the reason that I majored in Liberal Arts the first time I was in college was because I THOUGHT I didn’t like or wasn’t any good at science. Turns out it wasn’t true, but I didn’t find that out until later. So, it wasn’t until I had been working in retail for a while – I got a job for a wholesaler in Dallas and it was during that year that I was with them, we took a trip to Northern California to visit a number of our winery suppliers. I was born in Southern California and that was the first time I’d ever been in Northern California. And it was certainly the first time I’d ever been in (what I would call) a real winery. I mean, I had been to a winery in Texas – no offense but that didn’t really strike me as being the real deal. I was blown away! It was one of those things where “being there and going to different places and talking to people and seeing what it was really all about” that it occurred to me that this is something that I can do too.
I’m sure you’ve been in wineries – there is just something about the way a winery smells. . . for those of us that have the right gene I guess – it just takes you over. The funny thing is that every time I give a tour now, the first thing that happens when people walk into the cellar is they say “Oh that smell!” But you know what – I don’t even notice it anymore! It’s just that way it happens. . . I guess it just becomes the background. It’s not like my sense of smell is diminished, I smell things that I want to smell when I’m evaluating wines but that sort of background pervading aroma that you get in a barrel room it just. . .I mean, I can smell it if I think about it but it’s not the first thing that hits me when I come into work. Its just part of what I do now and it was a big part of how I decided I wanted to do this.
As soon as I got back from that trip I began plotting and scheming. Basically, “OK, how can I get out there and how can I make this work.” I knew it would require going back to school in a pretty serious way, but by that time I was ready to be serious about it. In Dallas I met the woman I would eventually marry and the two of us came out here together. I got yet another job at another wine shop here and then in the meantime I went to school at night, taking all those science classes I had avoided like the plague the first time I was in school in order to qualify for the graduate program at Davis. And low and behold it turned out I was actually pretty good at it! All the chemistry and physics and microbiology and all the things that are required. I did well enough and got accepted into the grad program and two years later I was working making wine.














