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This week, the AW Tasting Panel went green! We are excited about sustainable farming and winemaking practices, and our blind tasting line-up included the biodynamic, organic, fantastic wines of Parducci Wine Cellars and Paul Dolan Vineyards. Both wineries are the result of the dedication of a pioneer in the wine world who has brought accreditation and prominence to the term “sustainability.” Not only has Paul Dolan inspired a wholesome approach to winemaking and vineyard care, but his vision has reminded us of the frequently overlooked ethical responsibility of farming:

A sustainable farm should be a whole farm, like a whole person. It must have integrity. It must have a moral center. It must be connected to its values and the greater world. It must aspire to do what is right, not just for the bottom line, not just from a legal standpoint, but from a moral and ethical standpoint. It’s not only accountable, it’s responsible.

Parducci Wine Cellars and Paul Dolan Vineyards are both under the Mendocino Wine Company umbrella, and the list of environmentally conscious practices is far reaching for both wineries. Solar Power. Earth-friendly packaging. Soy-based inks on the labels. Biodiesel gas in all farming equipment. Natural pest control. To learn more about their practices, please visit Parducci Wine Cellars or Paul Dolan Vineyards websites.

Sustainability and sound farming practices can only get you so far – the wine needs to taste good too. Our tasting panel always tastes blind, so we were able to approach these wines without our “green-loving” bias.

Parducci Wine Cellars:

2007 Chardonnay, Mendocino County – A dry wine with a clean and crisp nose. Full of floral aromas with some green apples. The mouthfeel has a slight hint of minerality and fruit flavors of tasty nectarines. This wine has a clean finish and a good level of acidity – would go well with creamy food. Not a buttery wine, so this is perfect for those who shy away from oaky chards!

2005 “True Grit” – Petite Sirah, Mendocino County – A rich, inky-purple wine. Aromas of licorice and raspberries on the nose with an earth component reminiscent of rich, damp soil. The mouthfeel is full of rich currant, vanilla, black olives and black pepper. This wine has good tannin levels, so it will cellar well. If not saving it, then do not forget to decant. A big and bold wine that stands up to its name.

Paul Dolan Vineyards:

2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino County – This wine has a wonderful nose. Floral aromas, paired with vibrant citrus zest make this wine very tempting. The mouthfeel follows through with high levels of acid and flavors of honeysuckle and orange peel. This wine begs to be accompanied by food!

2005 Deep Red, Mendocino County – Paul Dolan Vineyards features both organically grown and biodynamic wines. This particular blend is certified biodynamic. Named after the deep, rich volcanic soils of Darkhorse Vineyards, this red blend exemplifies the natural approach to winemaking. With aromas of raspberry and blackberries, this wine has good grip, earthy flavors, and a well rounded body. Though a complex wine, this is not very fruit forward, so if you are not a fan of fruit bombs, this blend is for you.

2006 Zinfandel, Mendocino County – This wine surprised our tasting panel. With notes of anise, pomegranate, and a hint of herbs, this wine did not come off as a typical Zinfandel. The mouthfeel  has flavors of cherry, vanilla, a bit of peppery spice, and a dash of cinnamon. Yet the body was relatively light and the wine not super rich. Though we were surprised to find out the varietal nature of this wine, this wine was great. Lighter than expected, but well balanced and very drinkable.

Over all, these wines impressed our tasting panel on both the ethical, feel-good level as well as their general drinkability (and price).

Grass via Wili_Hybrid

For many people, buying “organic” is just a way to make themselves feel better about the detrimental effects of cost saving yet environmentally harmful corporate practices.

I read a recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle, “Does being green make better wine, or just better bragging rights?” The article itself inspired some thought, and the comments more so.

It is easy to drown your thoughts with skepticism about the “organic” label, or “green” wineries. And there is some reason for it, because a good amount of that is marketing – catering to a group of shoppers whose true care for the “environment” is possibly driven by one’s social image rather than genuine concern. But despite the fact that there is plenty of bureaucracy and targeted marketing behind “green” wines, the general intentions which drive the movement and the overall effect on the wineries and vineyards which participate in it are favorable – for both the consumer and the planet. In the long run (to use a very basic example) not using pesticides is better for the soil, and in turn better for our body.

My point is that a healthy skepticism and a questioning of the intentions behind the “green” label is good. But if you complain about the wines that the “green” movement is endorsing and whatnot, and go on buying your Barefoot Shiraz, then what part of the equation are you, really? A hypocritical one. One that falls victim to a conveniently placed, money saving product.

“Still Life” via Faeryan

A more positive and effective, albeit more time consuming and difficult way to tackle the issue is by establishing a personal connection with the products you consume – researching and understanding the product and company. There are hundreds of wineries in this country which do not bear the “organic,” or “biodynamic” certification which nonetheless take many steps to ensure an increasingly harmonious relationship with the environment. Some use solar energy to power their operations, grazing animals to provide natural fertilizer for the vines, native bird populations to deter harmful critters, thinner glass or alternative packaging to decrease one’s carbon footprint. Many winemakers and vineyard owners go to great lengths to be as much of a responsible steward of the land as possible, yet the majority of the wine drinkers never know about them. Why?

Finding those wineries can be a difficult and time consuming process, and the implementation of sustainable practices is more likely to happen on a micro level. The environmental and economic benefits are long term, and thus do not easily equate into the profit calculations of internationally distributed brands. Great care and attention to detail is required, and thus the wineries which take these “extra” steps to be “green” have a low case production. Their wines never make it to large grocery stores or wine shops. Robert Parker never hears about them. Only those who take the time to seek out such wines, paying attention to the story and the process behind the wine in addition to its overall quality, can truly participate in a better cycle of wine production and consumption.

By seeking out local wines, getting to know their story and the processes behind their wines, you are not only likely to enjoy those wines more than the national brands, but you will contribute to strengthening your local economy and ensuring the longevity of the land in which you live. Support Your Local Winemaker!

Read the original article here…

The standards for growing and selling organic foods are determined and regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). I will delve into these standards and the issues surrounding them in my next post. For now, we must understand the technical framework for the four different classifications using the Organic title on alcohol beverage containers.

100% Organic. Organic. Made with Organic Grapes. Made with Organic Ingredients.

The skeptic in me immediately cringes. Apparently, we need to differentiate between “100% Organic” and “Organic.” Shouldn’t the latter be the former? If you did not know that “100% Organic” existed, wouldn’t you assume that “Organic” meant what it says? But no – living in a culture where “new and improved!” pretty much means same as before but with a new label – “Organic” is only so when it is 100% (Now! More Organic than before!). But no matter, that is neither here nor there. “100% Organic” is at the top of the “O” tOtem pole, and “Made with Organic Ingredients” is at the bottom.

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